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MOOG TAURUS 1 BASS MODULE ONLY - RESTORATION/ REPAIR

 

 

I was approached to restore a MOOG T1 that was purchased at an estate sale. I recognized the pictures as a modified Taurus 1 that was originally listed on eBay weeks before... I passed on it because of the rather high cost.

 

 

This T1 was modified with external Pedals and an XLR connector where the OCTAVE switch was. I guess that the original owner needed to separate the Taurus 'brain' from the pedals and still have remote control of the OCTAVE switch. The new owner wanted to restore the T1 to its former glory... since the 'gaudy' pedals were not included in the new sale, adding MIDI control was the only way to trigger the Taurus.

I had to remove the multi-pin connector from the original pedal connection and add a MIDI jack and associated MIDI circuitry to trigger the T1 with a standard MIDI controller.

 

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INSTALL NEW OCTAVE SWITCH

I also removed the XLR connector from the OCTAVE switch hole and installed a new C&K pushbutton switch.

 

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REBUILD VARIABLES DOOR

I creatively, and economically, re-created the variables door using an off-the- shelf product that fits almost perfectly.

 

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REBUILD GLIDE SLIDER POT

Since the Glide Slider shaft was broken, I had to disassemble the slider and transplant the 5M Ohm carbon trace into a new CTS slider housing.

 

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REBUILD LOUDNESS FOOT PEDAL

The Shaft on the Loudness foot pedal was broken and would no longer reach the PCB Slider to allow Volume control. I rebuilt the shaft and now it works as it should.

 

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REPLACE ALL ELECTROLYTIC CAPS

All of the Mainboard and Power Supply Electrolytic capacitors were replaced and a new aluminum bottom plate was fabricated to mount the Power Supply and Ground Lug.

 

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REPLACE PCB TRIMMER POTS

Early in production Moog found that the Plastic-Carbon potentiometer networks, used for frequency tuning of the oscillators for the presets, were unstable. They switched to Ceramic-Metal potentiomenters in later versions... As recommended in later service manuals, I replaced the trimmers and added the complementary 1% Metal-Film Resistors...

 

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REPLACE ALL CMOS SWITCHES

Some Basic troubleshooting found symptoms of failure around all of the CMOS bi-lateral switches. I replaced all of those I.C.s as it seems, from experience, that these 'chips' fail after a long period of time. (These were >40 years old.)

 

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RE-CALIBRATION TO FACTORY SPECS

After all of the repairs and parts replacements, the TAURUS 1 was warmed-up and aligned using my custom procedure that is based on MOOG's alignment outlined in the MOOG T1 Service Manual.

All of the functions worked properly and the T1 was stable after 72 hours of ON-Time.

 

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BEFORE PIX